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Identify a sick Bird.....
 

Most disease in caged birds is directly or indirectly related to malnutrition and stress. Malnutrition most often stems from what the bird eats, rather than how much it eats. Most caged birds are offered enough food, but they do not receive enough of the proper foods and in the proper proportions. Stress results from any condition that compromises a bird's state of well-being. Examples include poor husbandry, inadequate diet, rapid temperature changes, and trauma.

All owners of caged birds must understand that birds tend to "hide" signs of illness. Birds can compensate for serious internal disease in such a way that they appear healthy externally. It is theorized that evolution has "taught" birds to hide signs of illness to avoid being harassed and possibly killed by other birds in the same flock.

Because of this disease-masking tendency, by the time a bird owner recognizes illness in a pet bird, the bird may have been sick for 1-2 weeks.
Therefore, one cannot afford to take a "wait and see" approach and hope the bird improves. Be observant and act promptly. Learn to look for subtle signs of illness, and take special note of changes in the routine and habits of your pet bird. Seek veterinary assistance promptly if you suspect illness.

Following is a list of signs of illness easily recognizable by the concerned bird owner. Alone or in combination, they signify potential illness in your bird.

Signs of Illness

-- Discharge from the eyes
-- Change in clarity or color of the eyes
-- Closing of the eyes
-- Swelling around the eyes
-- Discharge from the nostrils
-- Obstructed nostrils
-- Soiling of feathers on head or around nostrils
-- Sneezing
-- Inability to manipulate food within the mouth
-- Reduced appetite or not eating at all
-- Fluffed-up feathers
-- Inactivity
-- Droopy wings
-- Decreased preening and feather maintenance
-- Break in the bird's routine
-- Change in or no vocalization (may be serious)
-- Weight loss
-- Equilibrium problems (very serious!)
-- Inability to perch (bird on cage bottom)
-- Limping or not bearing weight on 1 leg
-- Swollen feet or joints
-- Change in quality or quantity of droppings
-- Open-mouthed breathing when at rest (very serious!)
-- Tail pumping (rhythmic back & forth motion of tail when resting)
-- Lumps or masses anywhere on the body
-- Bleeding (always an emergency situation, regardless of the origin)

If you suspect illness in your bird, do not delay in making an appointment with your veterinarian. Either transport your bird to the doctor's office within its cage or use some other suitable container (smaller cage, pet carrier, box). Never visit the veterinarian with your bird perched on your shoulder. This method does not provide enough protection for your pet.
Whatever container you choose should be covered to help minimize the stress to your sick bird during its visit. If you take your bird to the veterinarian in its own cage, do not clean it first. The material you discard could represent valuable information to the veterinarian.

After a sick bird has been initially treated by a veterinarian, home care is very important. Sick birds must be encouraged to eat and must be kept warm.
Illness can cause significant weight loss in a matter of days, especially if the bird stops eating. If this happens, the patient must be hospitalized.
However, even a sick bird with a "healthy appetite" can close substantial weight because of the energy drain caused by the illness.

As a general rule of thumb, any caged bird that appears ill to its owner is seriously ill. One day of illness for a bird is roughly equivalent to 7 days of illness for a person. The tendency for a pet bird owner in this situation is to first seek advice from pet stores and there purchase antibiotics and other medication for their sick pet bird. With very few exceptions, these non-prescribed products are worthless. They allow the sick bird to become even sicker, and greatly compromise the results of diagnostic tests that the veterinarian may require to properly diagnose and treat the patient. Contact your veterinarian at the slightest sign of illness in your bird.

Supplemental heat (space heater, heated room, heating pad under the cage bottom or wrapped around the cage, heat lamp) is vital for a sick bird. It is especially necessary if the bird's feathers are fluffed up. Provide just enough heat so that the feather posture appears normal. Overheating the patient must be avoided at all costs. Heat-stressed birds pant, hold their wings away from the body, depress their feathers lose to the body, and appear anxious and agitated. Heat stroke and death can result if the bird continues to be overheated. The environmental temperature should be kept at
80-95 F for sick birds. The patient's cage should be covered (top, back and
sides) during its convalescence.

If a bird refuses to crack seeds or eat other foods that require a great deal of work, offer hulled or sprouted seeds or other "easy" foods, such as warm cereal, cooked rice, cooked pasta, vegetables, applesauce and other fruit sauces, and peanut butter. Remember, birds that refuse to eat must be hospitalized. Few people can successfully force-feed a sick bird at home.
 

Box Turtle General Information.....
 

NATURAL DIET

As with most captive reptiles, most medical conditions for which box turtles are presented to veterinarians result from malnutrition, either directly or indirectly. Box turtles are omnivorous. They will eat whole animals, such as meal worms, snails, slugs, earthworms and other invertebrates that may live in the humus and leaf litter in whichbox turtles normally hunt for food in their natural habitat. Box turtles also readily accept fruits, berries and certain vegetables.

FEEDING

Box turtles can be successfully raised by feeding a diet of whole animal substitutes, such as Reptile-Fare (Reliable Protein Products, Los Angeles, CA 90048), low-fat soft dog food (Cycle 4, Gaines Foods, St. Anne, IL 60964), or low-fat semi-moist dog food (Gainesburgers, Gaines Foods, St.
Anne, IL 60964). Fruit (berries of all types, bananas, pears, peaches, papayas, guavas), vegetables (chopped, thawed, frozen mixed vegetables, squash, yams) and edible mushrooms should be provided as well. The fruits and vegetables provide additional vitamins, minerals and moisture, as well as necessary roughage. Many hobbyists believe a ratio of 1/2 to 2/3 whole animals and/or whole animal substitutes to 1/3 to 1/2 fruit and vegetable matter offers the best results. Fruit-loving box turtles can be persuaded to eat a wider variety of foods by mixing soft dog food with pureed or chopped fruit. Other foods can be judiciously added to the aforementioned items, including cottage cheese, chopped hard- boiled or scrambled egg, grated cheese and yogurt.

A completely natural diet (one that a wild box turtle would select for
itself) can never be exactly duplicated under conditions of captivity. For this reason, and because the exact nutritional requirements of box turtles are unknown, vitamin-mineral supplementation is advised. Powdered supplements intended for reptiles (Reptical and Vita-Life, Terra-Fauna Products, Mountain View,CA 94042; Reptovite, Verners Pet Products, Long Beach, CA 90807) should be sprinkled each day over food moist enough to ensure adherence of the product. We prefer the powdered vitamin-mineral-amino acid supplement, Nekton-Rep (Nekton Products, W.
Germany) and believe it to be superior to the similar products listed above.

ENVIRONMENTAL TEMPERATURE AND FREQUENCY OF FEEDING

Box turtles can be fed daily, though many hobbyists feed them every other day or 2-3 times weekly. They will not eat at low environmental temperatures and likewise cannot digest food well at low temperatures. Consistently warm environmental temperatures must be maintained, especially at night, for box turtles kept in colder climates, or for those not allowed to hibernate.
 

 

Water Turtle.....
 

Various species of water turtles are kept as pets in the United States. Most of those purchased by hobbyists originate from the southern and eastern regions of the U.S. By law, imported turtles of most species must be at least 4 inches long. The trade in exotic turtles has been increasing in recent years, especially in countries with poor animal protection laws and abundant turtle populations.

Turtles inhabit all parts of the world with a temperate to warm climate and are especially abundant in the tropics and subtropics. Water turtles are found in a wide variety of habitats, including ponds, swamps, small pools thick with vegetation, lakes of all sizes, large streams and rivers.

All water turtles share some obvious physical characteristics, such as a top and bottom shell and webbed feet. Many have developed specific adaptions to cope with specific environmental conditions. The Diamondback Terrapin, for example, is confined in its geographic distribution to the brackish water of the coastal eastern U.S. (brackish water has a salt content between that of fresh and sea water). The Malaysian Snail-Eating Turtle survives well in its environment on a diet of mainly snails.

The Mata Mata is an unusual-looking turtle that resembles the rotting vegetation found on the bottoms of the relatively shallow lakes and rivers in which it lives. It is a poor swimmer and rarely leaves it aquatic habitat, except to lay eggs. The Mata Mata rests motionless on the bottom, well camouflaged among the decomposing vegetation, and lies in wait for its prey. The turtle can breathe during these long intervals through a long, narrow nose (similar to a snorkel), the end of which just breaks the surface of the water. When a small fish or other prey animal swims by, the Mata Mata opens its mouth and suck its prey in, all in a split second.

The juvenile Alligator Snapping Turtle's olive green-brown color camouflages it well against the bottom of rivers in which it lives. To attract prey within striking distance, it opens its mouth and wiggles its unique bright pink, slender tongue. As a small fish moves in for a closer look, it is quickly trapped in the turtle's jaws. The adult Alligator Snapping Turtle, the largest freshwater turtle in the world, can reach 200 lb or more, and can eat an entire duck in one gulp!

Hobbyists should study and thoroughly familiarize themselves with the natural history and habits of any turtle species they intend to acquire before they select their new pet. This "homework" helps ensure the turtle will thrive in captivity.
 

 

Snakes.....
 

Snakes are elongated, legless animals with dry, scale-covered skin. Their skin is unusually elastic, which allows it to stretch when large prey items are swallowed. Snakes are rather unique because of these features and because they lack moveable eyelids and external ear openings. Snakes may be only a few inches to several yards long.

Snakes inhabit a wide variety of ecologic habitats: land, trees,u nderground, fresh water, and salt water. They are found on every continent except Antarctica. No native snakes are found on the islands of Hawaii, Iceland, New Zealand and Ireland.

SELECTING A PET SNAKE

Some snakes are rare, endangered and protected by law. These snakes may only be kept by zoos and legitimate herpetologists with the appropriate permits.
This is also the case with venomous snakes, which should not, under any circumstances, be kept by the average hobbyist.

The most common snakes kept by enthusiasts are the many and varied constrictor species (boas, pythons, rat and milk snakes, etc) and the racer, gopher and garter species. The husbandry and dietary requirements for these types of snakes vary considerably. Furthermore, some of the same species (notably the boa constrictors and pythons) reach very large sizes in captivity, and their considerable space requirements must be anticipated.

Usually, an individual eager to own a snake already has a species preference in mind because of some familiarity with it (friend owns a snake of the same species, etc) or because of an inexplicable attraction to a species'
physical appearance, size, activity or habits. Before you acquire a snake, you should carefully consider the following recommendations:

- Research the major husbandry requirements of the snake and determine whether or not you can successfully meet them now and in the future.
Husbandry requirements include dietary, environmental (living space, temperature, humidity,lighting, etc) and sanitation considerations.

- Research the temperament of the species. If you intend to enjoy your snake primarily by observing it within its enclosure and rarely by handling it, this becomes a less important consideration. If you intend to regularly handle the snake, however, you must be able to do so with minimal stress and injury to both the snake and yourself.

Snake temperaments vary among species and among individuals of the same species. Certain snake species almost always retain a gentle, docile nature when they are raised from infancy(boa constrictors). If fact, a healthy young boa constrictor makes the most suitable pet among the tropical snake species available. Other species (the larger pythons) are unpredictable and tend to be quite pugnacious as they mature, whether or not they are handled frequently. Reticulated and Burmese pythons are especially unpredictable when they are anticipating being fed. Snakes of these types, especially those handled infrequently, become conditioned to associating feeding with human contact and often cannot distinguish the difference between these 2 situations. The small Ball python has the most predictable and even temperament of all of the python species.

- Some species (anacondas) rarely develop temperaments suitable for captivity. Wild-caught adults of all species generally make unsuitable pets because they resist taming. One notable exception to this is the California Rosy boa. Even when obtained as an adult, they usually have a very shy, docile nature.

- Select a snake that can feed without difficulty and one that is eating regularly.

- Select a snake that appears healthly in all respects. Avoid choosing an unthrifty-looking snake out of sympathy with the idea that you can "nurse"
the snake back to health. Many of these snakes have suffered irreparable internal damage and cannot be rehabilitated.

- Avoid selecting a snake belonging to a species that is notoriously difficult to keep in captivity, requires difficult or elaborate environmental setups, or spends most of its time hiding or burrowed underground.

- Avoid selecting a poisonous or venomous species. Only the very experienced herpetologist should attempt to keep these types of snakes in captivity.
State and local laws prohibit possession of venomous snakes except by experienced individuals holding legitimate permits.

 

 

 

 

Information regarding your pets is meant as general information. Our goal is to help in general situations and is not meant as an absolute especially when evaluating the health and well being of your pet. We are not Veterinarians nor is this intended as veterinary advise. We highly recommend that you speak with your Veterinarian, animal specialist, or Veterinary clinic.

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