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| Adult Cat Feeding Guide..... |
| Because cats tend to develop very rigid eating
habits, your adult cat's dietary preferences are likely to be
influenced by how you have fed it during its growth and development.
To prevent "addiction" to 1 or 2 food items, which may be detrimental
to your pet's health in later years, provide some variety in its diet.
Variety, however, should be provided in the form of various balanced
cat foods, not by the addition of table foods.
The dietary needs of cats are different from those of dogs, and dog
food does not supply the nutrients cats need. Severe health problems
can occur in cats fed dog food. Also, fish and milk are not the
natural foods of cats, and do not provide an adequate diet when fed
exclusively.
Several commercial cat foods are available that provide a complete and
balanced diet for cats. Your veterinarian can recommend some of these
and advise you if any supplementation is necessary to meet the needs
of your particular cat.
Cats require much higher levels of protein in their diet than do dogs.
Unfortunately, protein is the single most expensive ingredient in cat
foods.
Consequently, bargain-brand or cheap cat foods contain low-grade,
poorly digestible protein. For your cat's good health, avoid the
cheaper brands of cat foods.
Special diets are available for specific health needs. One will be
recommended when required. Water must be available at all times and
should be changed at least once daily.
How Much Should You Feed Daily?
In general, you can feed your cat according to the manufacturer's
directions, but under certain circumstances the directions should be
modified. The amount will vary according to age, activity,
reproductive status and general health. On the average, a relatively
active, nonpregnant, nonlactating, 8-lb adult cat requires about 30
calories per pound body weight daily.
Different foods vary in their caloric content, but you can use the
following general rules:
Dry cat foods 300 calories per cup Semi-moist foods 125 calories per
packet Canned foods 200 calories per 6-1/2 ounce can
The doctor can help you determine the exact calories contained in a
specific brand.
Example: an 8-lb active adult cat with no special needs requires 30
calories per pound per day. You are feeding dry cat food. The total
calories it needs are 8x30 = 240 calories. Therefore, you should feed
240/300 = 4/5 cup of dry food.
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| Cats Heat Cycle..... |
| Estrus ("heat") is the mating period of female
animals. When estrus occurs, animals are said to be "in heat" or "in
season." Cats normally have their first estrous cycle between 5 and
10 months of age, with the average age around 6 months.
The female cat has 2-4 estrous periods every year, each lasting
15-22 days. If she is bred, estrus seldom lasts more than 4 days.
If successful mating does not occur, estrus may last for 7-10 days
and recur at 15- to 21-day intervals. It is possible for an unmated
female to cycle every 3-4 weeks indefinitely.
Cats also have an estrous period 1-6 weeks after giving birth, so a
female may be nursing one litter while pregnant with another.
Behavior
Since there is usually no obvious vaginal discharge or swelling of
the genitals during estrus in cats, as is seen in dogs, behavioral
changes are the only obvious signs that your cat is in estrus.
A cat in estrus carries her tail to one side, keeps her hindquarters
elevated, exhibits "treading" movements of the hind legs, and seems
unusually affectionate. She spends a good deal of time rolling on
the floor and seems much more restless than usual. The cat's voice
seems more piercing than usual and she may "call" for 1-2 days
before she accepts the male.
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| General Information on Cat Pregnancy..... |
| The term gestation means the period when the young are
developing in the mother's uterus. In cats, gestation normally lasts
63-65 days. Siamese cats may carry their kittens for 67 days.
Diagnosis of Pregnancy
There are no practical blood or urine tests available for early
diagnosis of pregnancy in the cat. The earliest possible time of
diagnosis may be at 3-4 weeks after breeding, when the doctor may be
able to detect pregnancy by feeling the abdomen.
Physical Changes
During the first 4-5 weeks of pregnancy, there are few noticeable
changes.
Weight gain and enlargement of the abdomen generally become
noticeable after the fifth week. The increase, of course, varies
with the size of the litter.
The mammary glands may begin to enlarge during the fifth week, but
typically no increase in size is noticed until the seventh week.
Milk is normally present 1-2 days before delivery.
Behavioral Changes
During the last weeks of pregnancy, your cat may have difficulty
finding a comfortable position and may seem restless. Many queens
(female cats) seek seclusion. Occasionally the cat may soil the
house because the heavy uterus is pressing the bladder or colon.
Exercise
Normally no restriction of exercise is required during the first 6-7
weeks.
Your cat should be kept in the house during the last 2 weeks because
she may attempt to have her kittens in an unsafe outside location.
Nutrition
Good nutrition is essential to the health of both mother and
kittens. It is nearly impossible to overfeed a pregnant cat, since
she requires 2-4 times as much food as normal.
Harmful feeding practices include feeding raw egg whites, raw fish
and exclusive meat or fish diets. Your doctor may prescribe a
special diet or supplementation.
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| Preparing for the Kittens Birth..... |
| Are You Ready for Newborn Kittens?
Whether your ready for baby kittens may not be the question. If your
cat is, you have no choice but to get prepared, unless you want the
corner of your closet and extra bedding to become part of the new
kitten experience. Cat inevitably choose their own spot but can be
enticed to a mutual location with some kitten and cat comforts in
mind. You also want to make sure birthing goes smoothly for the
health of your cat, so information and preparation is key.
Preparation for Delivery
You should begin to prepare for birth of the kittens before the
queen gives birth. A box should be provided so that the mother
becomes accustomed to sleeping in it and will deliver the kittens
there. Most cats prefer a covered delivery box. Food and water can
be kept nearby. Place the box in a secluded yet familiar area of the
home, away from family traffic, to allow mother and kittens solitude
and rest. Newspapers make excellent bedding because they can be
changed easily, are absorbent, and can be shredded by the mother as
she makes her "nest." If such materials as old quilts, rugs,
blankets or mattress pads are used, they should be laundered
frequently.
If you want to know more precisely when delivery is near, check the
rectal temperature twice daily, starting on the 60th day. Rectal
temperature drops below 100 F within 24 hours before the onset of
labor. Normal rectal temperature ranges from 100.5 to 102 F.
Labor and Delivery
During the first stage of labor, the mother cat (queen) seems uneasy
and restless. She may refuse food or water. The cat's rectal
temperature drops, and she seeks dark, secluded places. Considerable
howling may occur. This stage lasts 12-24 hours.
In the second stage, contractions and expulsion of the kittens
begin.
Delivery starts with a small, greenish sac protuding from the
vaginal opening. This is followed by a kitten and the attached
placenta. The normal presentation of the kitten is nose first, lying
on its abdomen. Some kittens, however, are born hindquarters first.
After the delivery, the mother normally opens the sac by licking and
biting, cleans off the kitten and severs the umbilical cord. You may
have to perform these functions for the mother if she refuses to do
it herself (see Obstetric Care below). Make sure the sac is removed
from the kitten immediately if the mother doesn't do so.
The third stage of labor is a resting stage, which follows delivery
of each kitten. This stage may last from a few minutes to one hour.
Occasionally, 2 kittens are delivered within a few minutes, followed
by resting.
Obstetric Care
After each kitten is born, remove all membranes covering the kitten,
clean off its face, and remove mucus from its nose and mouth. Rub
the kitten with a clean, dry towel to dry it and to stimulate
breathing and circulation.
After a few minutes of rubbing, the kitten should begin to squirm
and cry.
The umbilical cord should be tied about 1 inch from the body with
fine thread and cut on the side of the knot away from the kitten.
Apply a drop of iodine or merthiolate to the cord end after it is
cut.
Assisting with the Birth
If a kitten seems to be lodged in the birth canal and the mother
cannot expel it, assistance is necessary. There may not be time to
call your veterinarian and drive to the hospital if you wish to save
the kitten. Grasp the kitten with a clean towel and exert steady,
firm traction. Do not jerk or pull suddenly. The best place to grasp
the kitten is by the skin of the back, but gentle traction on the
legs may be necessary.
Notify the Doctor if Any of the Following Occur:
* You cannot remove a kitten lodged in the birth canal.
* Labor is strong and persistent for 30 minutes without a birth.
* Labor is weak and intermittent for 5 hours without any results.
* There is a dark vaginal discharge, and no labor or births have
occurred within 3-4 hours.
* The pregnancy lasts more than 67 days.
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| Information regarding your pets is meant as general information.
Our goal is to help in general situations and is not meant as an
absolute especially when evaluating the health and well being of your
pet. We are not Veterinarians nor is this intended as veterinary
advise. We highly recommend that you speak with your Veterinarian,
animal specialist, or Veterinary clinic. |
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